Roma

Off the ship

A day off the ship at Civitavecchia

Everybody on the ship goes to Rome. The coast the ship is tied up to has painted Etruscan tombs, a volcanic lake and a castle on the beach.

40 things to book9 placesthe nearest is in Rome itself

If this is your first time in Italy, go to Rome — of course go to Rome. If it is not, consider the alternative: the coast behind Civitavecchia is one of the richest corners of the ancient Mediterranean, and on a cruise day you will have most of it to yourself while several thousand people queue for the Colosseum.

Within the country immediately around the port there are painted tombs at Tarquinia, the tomb-streets of Cerveteri, a castle standing in the sea at Santa Severa, a volcanic lake kept quiet at Bracciano, and hills full of half-wild horses at Tolfa.

One caution, and it is the reason this page is written the way it is: we do not know your ship's all-aboard time and we will not pretend to. What we can tell you is what is here and how long each thing takes, so you can measure it against the time you actually have. If your day is tight, the ship's own excursion has the advantage that the ship waits for it.

The geography is the part nobody explains at the gangway. Civitavecchia is not near Rome — it is an hour up the coast from it, in the middle of Etruscan country. That is why the ship's Rome excursion takes most of your day in a coach, and it is also why the alternative exists: the things immediately around the port are the ones the coaches drive past.

Whatever you choose, plan it backwards from the all-aboard time rather than forwards from breakfast. Decide when you must be at the gate, subtract the return journey, subtract the same again for the thing going wrong, and book inside what is left. Every card gives the length of the experience so the arithmetic is real rather than hopeful.

The third grid is there because on a tight day the honest answer is often a short, close thing done properly rather than a long one done at a run. A ride, a cellar, a sea trip or a thermal pool inside three hours leaves you standing at the gate early, which is the only version of this day that is genuinely relaxing.

The coast around the port

North and south of Civitavecchia along the Etruscan coast: tombs, beaches, sea caves, the castle at Santa Severa and the thermal springs in the hills behind Canale Monterano. Sorted by how close each is, so the top of the grid is what fits a short day.

Best fit for this section first, then whatever you can book today. Closest to Rome breaks a tie. Never by who pays us.

Steam rising from natural hot pools In the hot water

Thermal park and day spa at Stigliano

Five hours in a thermal park, and cold weather is the reason to go.

€25 per person

Books on termedistigliano.it

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A cyclist riding a bike along a country road On two wheels

Guided bike ride from Tarquinia to Montalto di Castro

A guided ride of about 25 km on a semi-loop from Camping Europing in Tarquinia to Montalto di Castro, crossing the seasonal Arrone stream and taking in the old town of Montalto …

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An outdoor thermal pool with steam rising off the water In the hot water

Full day spa at Stigliano

A full day, 10:00 to 20:00, with access to the whole spa and the outdoor thermal park.

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An outdoor thermal pool with steam rising off the water In the hot water

Morning spa at Stigliano

A five-hour morning slot, 10:00 to 15:00, with the sauna, salt room, infrared rooms, cold chamber, sensory showers, the heated indoor pool, the thermal basin and the outdoor the…

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Fiumicino On the trail

Birdwatching at the Maccarese ponds

A wetland managed by WWF near Maccarese, used as a stopover and wintering ground by many bird species: ducks in winter, herons, kingfisher, marsh harrier, and osprey in autumn.

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Fiumicino With your hands

Farm brewery tour and guided beer tasting near Rome

About two hours led by the brewer or one of the partners: a walk through the hop rows and the fields, the brewery itself, and a guided tasting of three beers chosen on the day a…

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Inland: the lake and the hills

Bracciano and its lake sit behind the coast, and the hills between them are empty. It is the direction almost no ship passenger takes — sailing and kayaking on a lake with no engines on it, riding in the Tolfa hills, and a castle above the water.

Best fit for this section first, then whatever you can book today. Closest to Rome breaks a tie. Never by who pays us.

A rider on a hydrofoil board far out on the water On the water

Learn to wing foil on Lake Bracciano

A course of four lessons on the lake, board and wing included, with the club that runs them.

€400 per booking

Books on Sporting Club Sabazia

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Sacrofano On horseback

Western riding lesson

The centre teaches western riding with CONI federal instructors, working with Quarter Horses.

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Riders on horseback on a trail above a lake On horseback

Horse trekking in the Veio Park

The riding centre sits in localita Monte Sughero, inside the Parco di Veio, 15 km north of Rome.

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A cyclist riding a bike along a country road On two wheels

Guided ride on the Ciclovia dei Laghi, Lake Bracciano

A guided 7 km ride on the Ciclovia dei Laghi, inside the Bracciano-Martignano regional park, with panoramic points over the two lakes, the Monti Sabatini, the Monti della Tolfa …

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A small sailing boat under sail on open water On the water

Guided kayak tour on Lake Martignano

A guided canoe outing along the shores of Lake Martignano, run inside the regional park programme of naturalistic events.

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A wakeboarder skimming across flat water behind a towline On the water

Sailing, canoe and kayak courses at Bracciano

A sailing centre on the Bracciano lakefront with courses for children aged 6 to 16 in camp or daily format, an adult sailing school, and canoe and kayak courses.

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Short enough for a port day

Three hours or less, from a single booking. Add your own travel time each way and see whether it fits. If the margin is thin this is the grid to book from, because a short thing done well beats a long thing watched from a window with an eye on the clock.

Closest to Rome first. Never by who pays us.

Roma Down the river

Walk and raft descent of the Aniene inside Rome

A circular route inside the Valle dell'Aniene nature reserve in Rome: a guided walk along the reserve paths, then a raft descent of the river past old bridges and small rapids, …

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A river running through a wooded valley Down the river

Urban rafting on the Tiber

Paddle under Castel Sant'Angelo and past Tiber Island, down the middle of Rome.

A sports club — you join them for the day

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A wakeboarder inverted above the water On the water

Wakeboard on the Tiber

Ninety minutes on a wakeboard on the Tiber, without leaving Rome.

A sports club — you join them for the day

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Where this takes you

Driving time from the middle of Rome, on the road network and without traffic. It tells you whether the day stands up; it is not a timetable.

Getting there

Getting there, the comfortable way

Questions people actually ask

Is Civitavecchia worth staying in rather than going to Rome?

If you have already seen Rome, yes. The Etruscan sites on this coast are among the best in the world and are half empty, and Lake Bracciano is twenty minutes further on. If you have never seen Rome, Rome wins.

How do I get from the port to these places?

Most people take a car with a driver for the day, which is also the version where somebody is responsible for having you back at the right time. Hire cars are available in the town. We do not publish transfer timings we have not checked.

Will I be back before the ship leaves?

That is your call and we will not guess it for you — every card gives the length of the experience so you can add your own travel time and decide with real numbers. If the margin is thin, the ship's own excursion is the one that guarantees the ship waits.

What is the one thing to see if I only have a few hours?

The painted tombs at Tarquinia, if you can reach them: there is nothing else like them, and they are underground, so weather does not matter. Santa Severa's castle on the beach is the shorter, easier version.

How far is Rome from the Civitavecchia cruise port?

Around an hour each way by road, which is the fact that shapes the whole day: a Rome excursion from here spends a substantial part of your time ashore travelling. That is the trade to weigh, not whether Rome is worth seeing.

What is there to do near Civitavecchia besides Rome?

Painted Etruscan tombs at Tarquinia, the tomb-streets of Cerveteri, a castle standing on the beach at Santa Severa, Lake Bracciano, kept quiet, sulphur springs in the hills at Canale Monterano, and riding in the Tolfa. All are inside an hour of the port.

Do I need to book a shore excursion in advance?

For anything with an instructor, a boat or a guide, yes — these are small operators and cruise days are busy ones. Where an operator confirms online the card says so; the rest carry a phone number, and calling from the ship the day before works.

Is it safe to book independently on a cruise day?

It is your risk rather than the ship's, and that is the whole difference: the ship waits for its own excursions and not for you. The way to manage it is time rather than hope — book something short, arrange the driving with somebody responsible for the return, and give yourself a margin you would be embarrassed to admit to.

What can I do in three hours from the port?

A thermal pool in the hills behind the coast, a sea trip, a ride, a cellar visit, or the castle at Santa Severa. The third grid on this page is exactly that list, with each operator's own duration on the card so you can add your travel time to it.

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