Cavers with kit bags in a lit cave passage

Underground

Lazio, from underneath

The rock around Rome is soft. For three thousand years that has meant one thing: if people wanted a space, they cut it.

30 things to book19 placesthe nearest is a 42 min drive from Rome

Volcanic tufo north of Rome and limestone to the south have given this region an unusual amount of underground: Etruscan tombs cut into cliffs, sunken roads dug so deep the sky is a slot overhead, wine cellars going down three storeys under hill towns, Roman water tunnels still running, and proper limestone show caves with rivers in them.

Most of these stay markedly cooler than the surface in August, which makes this the page to open in a heatwave. And most of them are unaffected by rain.

The underground here divides into two things that look similar and are not. There are limestone show caves — natural systems with rivers in them, lit paths and a guide — and there is everything people cut by hand, which is most of what is on this page. Tufo is soft enough to dig with iron tools and hard enough to stay up afterwards, and the towns built on it have been quietly extending downwards for three thousand years.

Under a town like Orvieto or Narni that means a second town: wells, quarries, dovecotes, snow pits, cellars, an aqueduct, and in Narni a cell the Inquisition used, lost and found again in living memory. These are visits with a guide and a fixed departure rather than a door you push, which is why booking matters more here than on most pages.

What to take: a jacket, whatever the surface temperature is doing, and shoes with a grip. The floors are wet in the natural caves and worn smooth in the man-made ones. Nothing on this page needs caving experience unless the card says it does — and where it does, it says so in the operator's own words.

The show caves

Limestone systems with lit paths, a guide and a fixed route. Pastena and Falvaterra in the south, Stiffe over in Abruzzo with a river running through it, and the wells and quarries under Orvieto. These are the ones that work with children and the ones that are unaffected by anything the weather is doing.

Best fit for this section first, then whatever you can book today. Closest to Rome breaks a tie. Never by who pays us.

Stalactites lit inside a show cave Under the ground

Pastena caves

Walk into the hill on wet steps, in a guided group of no more than twelve.

€10 per person

Books on grottepastenacollepardo.it

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Cavers with kit bags in a lit cave passage Under the ground

Speleo-canyoning in a hidden cave

A trip that combines caving with canyoning progression techniques: you walk through underground chambers, cross fixed sections and rope traverses with a helmet, harness and head…

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A caver with a headlamp inside a cave passage Under the ground

Orvieto Underground: the caves under the town

A guided walk through part of the man-made caves dug into the tufa rock under Orvieto, with cisterns, quarries and dovecotes cut into the cliff.

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A caver with a headlamp inside a cave passage Under the ground

Climb down the steps inside the Turk's Cave

To the left of the sanctuary church a stairway drops into the Grotta del Turco, the third and largest fissure of the split mountain: a pointed arch of rock open to the sea, wher…

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Cut by hand

The Etruscan sunken roads, the tunnels under the tufo towns, the cellars, the catacombs, the aqueducts. Not natural: somebody carved every metre of these, usually for water, wine or cold storage, and usually a very long time ago. Orvieto and Narni are the two towns where the underground is a visit in its own right.

Best fit for this section first, then whatever you can book today. Closest to Rome breaks a tie. Never by who pays us.

A caver with a headlamp inside a cave passage Under the ground

Narni Underground: the Inquisition cell found in 1979

A guided visit to the rooms under the former convent of San Domenico: a frescoed church, a Roman cistern and the cell used by the Holy Office, whose graffiti are still being res…

A sports club — you join them for the day

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A caver with a headlamp inside a cave passage Under the ground

Catacomb of Santa Cristina, Bolsena

An underground early-Christian cemetery cut into the tuff beneath the basilica, with roughly 1,600 burials used between the third and fifth centuries.

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A caver with a headlamp inside a cave passage Under the ground

The Anagni cathedral museum and the crypt of San Magno

A guided visit to the cathedral of Santa Maria Annunziata at Anagni and its museum: the chapter library, the old treasury, the Caetani chapel, the oratory of Saint Thomas Becket…

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A caver crawling through a low, muddy cave passage Under the ground

Caving in the Simbruini mountains

A guided visit to natural caves inside the Monti Simbruini park, wearing a helmet and head torch, through tunnels and narrow passages.

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Etruscan tombs, painted and otherwise

Tarquinia's painted chambers are the reason people come; Cerveteri's tumuli are a whole street of them, with steps going down into the dark. Both are UNESCO sites and both are an hour from Rome. There is also a quieter version — necropoleis reached on foot through a valley, or on a quad through the farmland they sit in.

Best fit for this section first, then whatever you can book today. Closest to Rome breaks a tie. Never by who pays us.

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Where this takes you

Driving time from the middle of Rome, on the road network and without traffic. It tells you whether the day stands up; it is not a timetable.

Getting there

Getting there, the comfortable way

Questions people actually ask

Is any of this hard going?

The show caves are walkways and steps, and the effort level for each activity is on its page. The caving and canyoning days are a different thing entirely, and they say so.

Good for a hot day?

Yes, and by some distance. Underground the temperature barely moves between February and August, so a cave in a heatwave is the coolest thing within an hour of the city. Take something with sleeves.

What caves can you visit near Rome?

Pastena and Falvaterra in the hills south of the city, the caves and Etruscan wells under Orvieto to the north, the Turk's Cave at Gaeta on the coast, and Stiffe over the border in Abruzzo, which has an underground river you walk beside. All are guided, and all are in the first grid above.

Do I need to book a cave visit?

For most, yes, because they run on fixed departures with a guide and a group size. A few of the Orvieto sites take you as you arrive. Each card says which, and carries the operator's number where the booking is made by phone.

Are the underground visits suitable for children?

The show caves usually are — they are lit, walked and dramatic, which is a good combination at almost any age. The underground towns are more talking and more stairs. Where the operator sets a minimum age, it is on the card.

What is the coolest place to go near Rome in August?

Underground. The show caves are the obvious answer, but the sunken roads of the Tuscia are the cheap one: they are cut metres down into the rock and shaded from end to end, and they cost nothing. This is the one page on the site that is better in a heatwave than in perfect weather.

Is there anything underground that is free?

Some of the smaller town circuits are close to it, and the sunken roads of the Tuscia cost nothing at all — they are public paths cut down through the rock, walkable end to end, and shaded the whole way. Where a card says free, it is because the operator publishes that it is.

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