Under the surface
Roman ruins on the seabed, volcanic walls dropping away in a lake, and the clearest water in this part of the Mediterranean out at Ponza.
36 things to book14 placesthe nearest is a 33 min drive from Rome
Diving near Rome has one great advantage over diving elsewhere: the things on the bottom are often Roman. This coast was a resort for the empire, and what fell in the sea, sank in the sea, and much of it is at snorkelling depth.
The best water is around Ponza, out in the Pontine islands — volcanic, deep and startlingly clear, with caves and walls. On the mainland, Santa Marinella and the southern coast around Gaeta run guided dives and courses all through the warm months.
For non-divers: the snorkelling here is excellent and needs nothing. A mask, a boat and a cove, and the same caves everybody else pays for tanks to see.
Three different kinds of water, and they suit different people. The islands are the serious diving: volcanic walls, caves, wrecks and visibility this coast does not otherwise offer. The mainland coast is where the courses and the first dives happen, because the centres are there and the logistics are simple. And Lake Bolsena is the unexpected one — a volcanic crater with a flat bottom, no swell and no current, which is why a good many Roman divers actually learn there.
For a first dive, none of this needs a qualification. Several centres run a supervised discovery dive where an instructor holds on to you and you breathe underwater for twenty minutes, which is enough to find out whether you want the rest. Medical and age requirements are the centre's and are on the card.
Snorkelling is the undervalued half of this page. This coast was an imperial resort, a great deal of what fell into the sea is still there, and much of it is at a depth you can reach on one breath. A mask, a boat and a cove is most of what is needed, and the boat trips exist because the best coves have no road to them.
Centres that take you out, including first-timer dives with an instructor holding on to you. Sorted by how far they are from Rome.
Closest to Rome first. Never by who pays us.
On the waterAn SSI diving school based at Frascati that organises guided dives on the coast north and south of Rome, including Santa Marinella and Tor Paterno, plus try-dive sessions, cours…
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On the waterWalk in from the lakeshore into a volcanic lake: shelving bottom, no current.
A sports club — you join them for the day
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On the waterA diving centre in the Porto Odescalchi marina at Santa Marinella.
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On the waterA diving centre in the Riva di Traiano marina, on the stretch of sea between Santa Marinella and Civitavecchia.
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On the trailGuided visit by a licensed guide, archaeologist or art historian to the Monterozzi necropolis, where about two hundred painted chambers survive, including the Tomb of the Liones…
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On the waterA full day out from Anzio: fast ferry across to Ponza, then about six hours in a boat around the island with several swimming and snorkelling stops, past the Grotte di Pilato, C…
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On the trailFour rooms in the centre of Sabaudia holding palaeontological, prehistoric and Roman finds together with marine organisms, an aquarium and a virtual dive.
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On the waterDay trips out to the Pontine islands to dive Ponza, Palmarola and Zannone, including the wreck at Punta Papa.
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On the waterThe centre dives the eleven kilometres of coast between Torre Fico and Terracina, on rock formations and posidonia meadows.
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On the waterA first scuba dive for people with no certification, run by a diving instructor.
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On the waterFull circuit of Lake Bolsena by rib boat from the Porto Turistico di Bolsena, calling at Bisentina and Martana islands with stops for swimming, snorkelling and lunch.
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On the waterGuided dives on Lake Bolsena for certified divers, run by the local dive centre.
See the dayPonza and Ventotene, reached by boat rather than by road, which is why there is no driving time to give for them.
Best fit for this section first, then whatever you can book today. Closest to Rome breaks a tie. Never by who pays us.
On the waterForty caves along the Circeo promontory, twelve aboard, two hours and a quarter.
€40 per person
Books on ilovecharter.it
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On the waterEvening boat trip leaving at 18:00 and returning at 21:00, with an aperitivo on board.
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On the waterThe boat leaves Le Forna at about 10:45 and follows the coast past the Grotte di Pilato, Chiaia di Luna, Capo Bianco, Lucia Rosa and Cala Feola, with four swimming stops.
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On the trailA guided walk of about 2.5 km through the eighteenth-century Bourbon harbour of Ponza.
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With your handsA short guided walk that ends inside the cellars of Antiche Cantine Migliaccio, with a tasting of two wines grown on the terraces of the island.
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On the waterShort boat trip along the sea caves of Ponza sold by the island's travel agency.
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On the trailGuided walk of about 2 km around the abandoned bentonite mine at Le Forna, on the northern end of Ponza.
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On the trailThree-hour guided hike of about 3 km up Monte Guardia, graded escursionistico by the operator.
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On the trailA 44-hectare coastal reserve between Anzio and Lavinio, known for its sulphur emissions and yellow sulphur deposits along the rocky shore.
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On the waterA boat leaves the marina of San Felice Circeo and goes right around the Circeo headland, passing its caves, beaches and coves.
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On the waterThe boat leaves the port of Terracina at 7:00 and comes back at 17:00.
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On the trailEvery Thursday night the town of Terracina and the local branch of Archeoclub d'Italia lead a walk that starts in Piazza Municipio at 10.30pm and goes through the alleys of the …
See the dayIf you are driving down for a dive, this is the rest of the day: the sea caves, the beaches and the boats along the same stretch.
Closest to Rome first. Never by who pays us.
On the waterA kitesurf school working several spots on the Roman coast, with a base at Fregene.
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On the waterA kitesurf school at Fregene running three levels of course: beginner, intermediate and advanced, each covering specific manoeuvres and safety technique.
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On the waterA kitesurf school working the Fregene, Focene, Maccarese and Passoscuro spots north of Rome.
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On the waterForty-five minutes from Piramide by train, then you take the helm off Ostia.
€45 per person
Books on barcadicarta.it
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On the waterWindsurf courses at beginner, intermediate and advanced level at the Banzai beach club on the Aurelia at Santa Marinella.
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On the waterA surf school in front of Banzai Beach at Santa Marinella, running since 2002 with instructors certified by the Italian surf federation.
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On the waterDives from an equipped inflatable boat leaving Porto Odescalchi at Santa Marinella.
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On the waterSix hours learning to stand up, on a beach the Termini train stops beside.
€160 their price
A sports club — you join them for the day
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On the waterIt runs on wind: a kite, a board and a beach among the Tarquinia dunes.
Booked by phone
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On the waterDay trips by boat leaving the Nettuno marina and the Anzio harbour.
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On the waterDives on the Anzio and Nettuno stretch of coast, organised by level: Secchitella, Panettoni and Grotticelle for beginners, Giardini del Faro and Taglio di Ponente for experience…
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On the waterCanoes and kayaks hired out on the lago di Paola, the coastal lagoon behind the Sabaudia dune inside the Circeo national park.
See the dayDriving time from the middle of Rome, on the road network and without traffic. It tells you whether the day stands up; it is not a timetable.
Ponza is an island: you get there by ferry, not by road, so there is no driving time to give.
Getting there
The day stays yours: you leave when you want, stop where you want, and come back when the light goes.
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See prices on LocalrentNo parking to find, no wrong turns, and you leave when the day is done.
Affiliate link — you pay their price, never more, and they pay us. You book with Welcome Pickups, and anything about that booking goes through them.
See prices on Welcome PickupsYes. Several centres run a first supervised dive that needs no qualification at all, and Lake Bolsena in particular is set up for exactly that. Any medical or age requirement is the centre's, and it is on the card.
Ponza, without much argument — volcanic walls, caves and clear water. It is a boat trip rather than a drive, so it works best as an overnight or a very long day.
Along the rocky stretches of the southern coast, yes, and around Santa Marinella to the north. The boat trips exist because the caves and the best coves have no road to them.
The season on this coast is the long warm half of the year, and September is often the best month of it — the sea holds its heat after the crowds have gone. Centres run courses either side of that in wetsuits.
Along the coast that was the empire's resort belt — the stretch from Santa Marinella south past Anzio and down to the Circeo and Gaeta, where villas, harbour works and fish tanks went under. Several centres and boat operators on this page take you over them, and some are at snorkelling depth.
In Bolsena and in Bracciano, both volcanic craters. Bolsena is the one the courses use: clear, deep, no current and no boat traffic. It is around two hours north, and it is often better visibility than the near coast.
The long warm half of the year, with September usually the best of it — the sea holds its heat after the crowds have gone. Centres run courses either side of that in wetsuits. Each card carries the operator's own season where they publish one.
Along the rocky stretches of the southern coast around Sperlonga, Gaeta and the Circeo, and around Santa Marinella to the north. The boat trips exist for the caves and the coves that have no road down to them, which is most of the best of it.
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