Bomarzo

Two hours out

Two hours from Rome

Two hours is where Lazio stops being the outskirts of Rome and becomes somewhere else entirely — Tuscany, Umbria, the mountains, the far coast.

28 days out10 placesthe nearest is a 1 h 16 drive from Rome

This is the distance at which people hesitate, and they are usually wrong to. Two hours of driving from Rome puts you in the Maremma with its long empty beaches and its Etruscan roads cut deep into the rock, in Umbria under a waterfall, on a hilltop town standing alone above a valley of clay, or in mountains with snow on them.

The rule for this distance is simple: leave early and make it the whole day. Two hours out and two hours back is not a problem if the middle of the day is six hours long. It becomes a problem when you leave at eleven.

It is also the distance where having somebody else drive changes the day most. Nobody enjoys the last hour of a long drive home after a day in the sun.

What two hours buys you is a change of landscape rather than a change of scene. At thirty minutes you are in Rome's hills; at an hour you are in its countryside; at two you are in the Maremma, in Umbria, in the high Apennines or on the far southern coast, and nothing around you looks Roman any more. That is the whole argument for the extra hour.

The way to make it work is one destination, not two. Two hours out, one place, six hours there, two hours back — that is a good day. Two hours out, three places forty minutes apart, and you have bought a driving tour with three car parks in it. The grids below are sorted by drive time so you can see honestly what you are committing to.

It is also the distance where the shape of the return journey starts to matter. The main roads out of Rome are fast and well surfaced; the last stretches in the hills are narrow and unlit. If the day involves wine, a long walk or small children, somebody else driving the way home is worth more at this distance than at any other.

An hour and a half

The far side of the Tuscia, the Rieti valley and the Sabina hills. Still a comfortable day if you start in the morning — Bomarzo's monster park, the villages above Roccantica, the country around Vetralla. Close enough that a late return is not a problem.

Closest to Rome first. Never by who pays us.

Bomarzo In the old stones

The cathedral of Bomarzo

A Renaissance church at Bomarzo.

Free — nothing to pay

Just turn up

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Vetralla On the trail

Norchia: the rock necropolis hidden in the wild

Walk to the Etruscan temple-tombs cut into the walls of a canyon, the ruins of the medieval castle and the church of San Pietro, crossing gorges and fording the river.

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Bomarzo On the trail

Park of the Monsters, Bomarzo

The sixteenth-century Sacro Bosco at Bomarzo, with more than thirty colossal figures carved out of the local peperino stone.

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Roccantica With your hands

Organic estate tour with oil or natural wine tasting

A visit to an organic estate at Roccantica with a tasting of the farm's extra virgin olive oil or of natural wines, served with an antipasto of local cheeses, cured meats and or…

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Roccantica With your hands

Herb picking and flavoured salt workshop

Picking aromatic herbs on the farm with an explanation of their uses, then grinding them into flavoured salts with mortar and pestle.

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Two hours, and worth every minute

Civita di Bagnoregio on its pinnacle, Montefiascone above Lake Bolsena, the Maremma at Capalbio, the high sanctuaries above Vallepietra, and the Stiffe caves over the Abruzzo border. This is where you stop recognising anything as Roman, and it is worth the early start it asks for.

Closest to Rome first. Never by who pays us.

Montefiascone In the old stones

The cathedral of Santa Margherita

A Renaissance basilica at Montefiascone, built by Michele Sanmicheli.

Free — nothing to pay

Just turn up

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Civita Di Bagnoregio On the trail

Civita di Bagnoregio, the dying city, with a guide

Guided visit to the village on the tufa spur: the church of San Donato with its wooden crucifix, Palazzo Alemanni, the geological museum and the clay pinnacles of the surroundin…

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Civita Di Bagnoregio On the trail

Guided visit to Civita di Bagnoregio, the dying city

A guided visit to the tufa village of Civita di Bagnoregio, reached by a 300-metre footbridge, including the church of San Donato with its rare wooden crucifix and Palazzo Alema…

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Capalbio In the old stones

The walls of Capalbio

Town walls at Capalbio.

Free — nothing to pay

Just turn up — open air, any hour

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Vallepietra On the trail

Monte Tarino from the Vallepietra sanctuary

A ring hike starting at the car park of the Santissima Trinità sanctuary above Vallepietra, along the Alta Via del Parco and part of the Frassati path, crossing the karst depres…

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Where this takes you

Driving time from the middle of Rome, on the road network and without traffic. It tells you whether the day stands up; it is not a timetable.

Getting there

Getting there, the comfortable way

Questions people actually ask

Is two hours too far for a day trip?

Not if you treat it as a full day rather than an afternoon. Leave by eight, and you have six or seven hours at the other end. The people who come back saying it was too far are almost always the ones who left at midday.

Should I stay the night instead?

At this distance it is a fair question, and for the Maremma and Umbria the answer is often yes. Two days lets you see the country between the towns rather than the road.

What about driving in the dark on the way back?

The main roads are fine and well surfaced. The small roads in the hills are narrow and unlit, which is one of the reasons a driver is worth considering for the long days.

What is two hours from Rome?

The Maremma coast and its Etruscan country, Umbria at Orvieto and the Nera valley, Civita di Bagnoregio, Lake Bolsena and the far Tuscia, the mountains above Rieti and Subiaco, and the southern coast at Sperlonga and Gaeta. The grids above are what you can actually book in each direction.

Can you do a two-hour day trip from Rome by train?

Some destinations at this distance are on lines out of Rome, and where an operator has told us they can be reached without a car, their activity page says so. But at two hours the useful part of the day is short, and a car or a driver is usually what makes the difference between a day out and a day travelling.

What time should I leave Rome?

Eight, if the drive is two hours. That puts you there before the middle of the day, gives you six or seven hours, and gets you home before the roads back into the city thicken. Leaving at eleven is what makes people conclude that two hours is too far.

Is it better to stay overnight at this distance?

For the Maremma and for Umbria, often yes — the evening in a small Italian town is when it comes alive, and you get the morning light as well. There is a separate page on this site for the directions that repay the night.

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