With your handsMake fresh pasta by hand in the Tivoli countryside
They collect you at your Rome hotel; you come back having made lunch by hand.
€250 per person
Books on Villa Proietti
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Tivoli
Two of the great gardens of Europe, an emperor's private town, and a river falling through the middle of it all — forty minutes from Rome.
34 days out7 placesthe nearest is a 43 min drive from Rome
Romans with money have been going up to Tivoli to escape the summer since before there was an empire. Romans with money have been going up there to escape the summer since before there was an empire, and two of the things they built are now World Heritage sites within a couple of kilometres of each other.
Hadrian's Villa is not a villa. It is a town the emperor built for himself, spread over an area you cannot walk in an hour, full of pools and colonnades and a theatre, reproducing bits of the empire he had travelled through. Allow half a day, take a hat, and consider a guide, because the ruins are hard to read alone.
Villa d'Este is the other kind of ambition: a cardinal's garden built down a hillside in the 1560s, with hundreds of fountains, all of them driven by gravity and a diverted river. There is not a pump in the place.
The third thing, which most visitors miss, is Villa Gregoriana — the gorge below the old town, where the Aniene falls into a wooded ravine with Roman temples on the rim. It is a walk down and a climb back up, and it is the wildest of the three.
The order of the day matters more at Tivoli than anywhere else on this site, because two of the three sites are in full sun and one is not. Hadrian's Villa first, in the morning, while the stone is still cool and the light is low across the pools. Lunch in the town. Villa d'Este after, when hundreds of jets of falling water are exactly what you want. Villa Gregoriana, if the knees are willing, at the end.
Two, not three. This is the mistake everybody makes and it is worth repeating: Hadrian's Villa alone is two to three hours if you do it properly, and it is a couple of kilometres below the town. Villa d'Este is another two. Adding the gorge as well turns a good day into a march. If you want all three, start at opening and eat late.
The thing almost nobody plans for is the bottom of the hill. Bagni di Tivoli has sulphur lakes and thermal pools that have been in use for the same two thousand years as everything else here, they cost a fraction of the villas, and half an hour in them at the end of a day of walking on stone is the best-value decision available in Tivoli.
Behind the town the Aniene valley climbs towards Subiaco: rafting, gorges, monasteries and beech forest, all within half an hour. That is the second day at Tivoli, and it is the reason a good number of people come back.
The villas, the gorge, the thermal pools and the food. Two of these sites are large: pick two, not three, unless you start early.
Best fit for this section first, then whatever you can book today. Closest to Rome breaks a tie. Never by who pays us.
With your handsThey collect you at your Rome hotel; you come back having made lunch by hand.
€250 per person
Books on Villa Proietti
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In the hot waterSix pools at a steady 23°C, and the station is right behind the park.
€16 per person
Books on termediroma.org
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On the trailEntry to the monumental Roman sanctuary of Hercules Victor at Tivoli, the third site of the VILLÆ complex.
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On the trailEntry to the archaeological area of Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli, part of the VILLÆ state institute along with Villa d'Este and the Sanctuary of Hercules Victor.
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On the trailA private guided tour of Hadrian's Villa covering the emperor's private quarters, the Canopus and Serapeum, the Pecile portico and the Large and Small Baths, including the under…
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On the trailEntry to the Renaissance villa and terraced garden of fountains at Tivoli.
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On the trailThe park in the gorge cut by the Aniene at Tivoli, managed by FAI since 2002, with a waterfall of about a hundred and twenty metres and Roman temples above it.
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With your handsA hands-on day with Chef Davide at Tivoli: making fresh pasta, tasting local wine and eating what has been cooked.
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In the airA tandem paragliding flight over the Tiburtini hills and the Aniene valley nature reserve, thirty-five kilometres from Rome.
A sports club — you join them for the day
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In the hot waterA day pass to the thermal spa fed by the sulphurous Acque Albule springs on the road between Rome and Tivoli.
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On the trailEvening openings of the Villa Gregoriana park on Fridays and Saturdays in summer.
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On the trailA guided visit of Hadrian's Villa in a group capped at eight people, leaving in the morning.
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On the trailA guided visit of Villa d'Este in a group capped at eight people, departing in the early afternoon.
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On the trailA ring walk in the Monte Catillo nature reserve, the balcony over the Aniene valley, on sunny limestone ridges and shaded oak paths with views over Villa d'Este and the waterfal…
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In the old stonesA Baroque cathedral at Tivoli, from the seventeenth century.
Free — nothing to pay
Just turn up
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In the old stonesA bridge at Tivoli.
Free — nothing to pay
Just turn up — open air, any hour
See the dayThe Aniene keeps going up into the mountains: rafting, gorges, monasteries and beech forest, all within half an hour of Tivoli.
Closest to Rome first. Never by who pays us.
Off roadThe longer of the operator's two daytime routes: three hours from Anticoli Corrado through rock spurs, small mountain villages, grazing animals and views across the Lazio Apenni…
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Off roadA two-hour guided quad ride from Anticoli Corrado along the old railway line, through olive groves and out onto the broom slopes of the Monti Ruffi, with views over the Aniene v…
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Off roadAn evening quad ride on unmade tracks up to a natural terrace for the sunset over the mountains, then down to the square of Anticoli Corrado for pizza by the slice and a soft dr…
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In the old stonesA castle in Palombara Sabina.
Free — nothing to pay
Just turn up — open air, any hour
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Off roadA two-hour guided quad ride for people who have never ridden one, starting at Palombara Sabina: a quarter on the tarmac road out to Stazzano, then three quarters on dirt.
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Off roadFour hours of extreme off-road for people who have ridden a quad before and are fit enough for it.
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Off roadA guided three-hour quad ride starting at Palombara Sabina, in the Monti Lucretili north-east of Rome.
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Off roadAn afternoon quad ride of three or four hours from Palombara Sabina, timed to reach the viewpoints of the Roman Sabina at sunset - the departure time shifts with the season.
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Off roadTwo hours on a quad and two hours on foot from Palombara Sabina.
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Off roadThree or four hours from Palombara Sabina split in two: two or three hours of guided quad riding, then about an hour in a clearing in the woods with a holistic coach.
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With your handsA walk among DOP Sabina and IGP Olio di Roma olive trees where a technician explains the native cultivars, then the mill where the extraction is shown step by step, and finally …
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On the trailAn easy out-and-back walk in the Monti Lucretili to the Lagustelli di Percile, two karst lakes, followed by a Hatha Yoga session by the water with a qualified teacher.
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In the hot waterSulphur pools open till 18:30, and the operator publishes the train to get there.
€12 per person
Books on Terme Sabine di Cretone
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In the hot waterThree large sulphur-water pools, one of them for children, continuously fed with fresh water, in the countryside of Palombara Sabina about 30 km from Rome.
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On the trailA free full-day guided trek organised by the Monti Lucretili regional park, starting from San Polo dei Cavalieri and heading up to the Pratone, the high meadow below Monte Gennaro.
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In the hot waterA wellness session in an apiary set inside the beech forest of the Simbruini park, built on apitherapy practices: bee humming, api-aromatherapy and api-sound.
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On the trailClimbing on an indoor artificial wall with routes for every level and an instructor always present.
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On the trailA slow, guided sensory walk in the beech forest of the Simbruini, led by a certified forest bathing guide.
See the dayDriving time from the middle of Rome, on the road network and without traffic. It tells you whether the day stands up; it is not a timetable.
Getting there
No parking to find, no wrong turns, and you leave when the day is done.
Affiliate link — you pay their price, never more, and they pay us. You book with Welcome Pickups, and anything about that booking goes through them.
See prices on Welcome PickupsYes, and it is a long day. Hadrian's Villa is a couple of kilometres below the town and takes two to three hours properly; Villa d'Este is in the town itself and takes about two. Do the Villa in the morning while it is cooler — there is almost no shade — and the fountains after lunch.
About forty minutes' drive from the middle of the city without traffic, on the road network. It is one of the closest genuinely major sites to Rome.
If your knees are willing. It is a steep circuit down into the gorge and back up, past the falls and the Roman temples, and it is the one people are surprised by. Skip it if you have already walked Hadrian's Villa in the heat.
The fountains at Villa d'Este are a hit at any age, the gorge is an adventure, and the thermal pools at the bottom of the hill are a swimming pool with a smell. There is a cooking lesson or two in the countryside around as well.
It is around forty minutes by road from the middle of the city, on the road network without traffic, and it is also one of the destinations reachable without a car. Where an operator has told us so, their activity page says it. Hadrian's Villa is a couple of kilometres below the town, which is the part to plan.
They are opposites. Hadrian's Villa is enormous, ruined and quiet, and needs a guide or a good imagination. Villa d'Este is compact, intact and theatrical, and needs nothing at all. If you can only do one and have children, take Villa d'Este; if you like archaeology, take the villa.
A full day for two of the three sites, done without hurrying. Half a day gets you one of them and lunch. Two days lets you add the gorge, the thermal pools and the valley behind the town, which most visitors never see.
It has two World Heritage sites a couple of kilometres apart, a river falling through a gorge under the old town, and thermal water at the bottom of the hill — forty minutes from Rome. It has been the city's day out since before there was an empire.
For the guided visits, yes, and the small-group ones fill first. The sites themselves publish their own opening times and we do not republish hours we have not verified — every card links to whoever does.
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